Glenn Martens Bids Farewell to Diesel with a Sensational, Sex-Positive SS27 Spectacle

How does a visionary creative director say goodbye to a beloved house after half a decade of redefining its very DNA? If you are Glenn Martens at Diesel, the answer involves a high-fashion runway presentation that culminates in a massive, uninhibited celebration of human connection, complete with performance art, immersive choreography, and an unapologetic embrace of raw sexuality.

Last week, the Italian luxury denim powerhouse Diesel officially announced that its acclaimed creative director, Glenn Martens, will be stepping down from his role following the upcoming Spring/Summer 2027 (SS27) show. The house described the departure as “marking the conclusion of a transformative chapter in the brand’s history.” Over the past five years, Martens has not only revitalized Diesel’s commercial appeal and cultural relevance but has also instilled it with a brazen attitude, sharp technical innovation, and an unmistakable ethos of sex positivity.

Throughout his tenure, Martens continually pushed boundaries by integrating sex-positive symbols directly into the fabric of the fashion world. Memorable moments from his leadership include distributing 200,000 boxes of Durex condoms to attendees at his Autumn/Winter 2023 show, mailing literal butt plugs as invitations to the runway, and featuring giant inflatable figures entwined in explicit positions right on the catwalk. That fierce, uninhibited ethos was thoroughly crystallized during Martens’ final collection for the brand, where models planted seamlessly within the audience descended into a choreographed display of debauchery as the presentation unfolded.

Before the sensory overload of the grand finale took hold, however, the focus was firmly on the clothes. Martens began his final collection by showcasing his signature mastery of textile manipulation, particularly within denim and leather. Among the standout pieces was a leather vest, meticulously topstitched with sharp white contrast thread, layered expertly over a ribbed knit jumper that featured jagged, distressed edges defining both its cuffs and its neckline. The leather utilized throughout the collection was exceptionally buttery and rendered in rich shades of cream and distressed brown, showcasing Martens’ ongoing fascination with tactile transformation.

In a classic display of trompe-l’œil trickery that has become a hallmark of his design language, several trousers that appeared to be crafted from traditional denim were actually fashioned from soft leather, meticulously lasered and treated to mimic the exact texture and appearance of classic jeans. These clever optical illusions reinforced Martens’ technical prowess and his ability to subvert traditional expectations of everyday fabrics. The ribbed jumpers with their signature jagged necklines continued to make recurring appearances throughout the progression of the looks, while convincing trompe-l’œil shearling added texture and visual depth to an array of jackets and coats.

Summarizing the overarching vision behind his parting collection, Martens noted in his show notes that the presentation represents the truest essence of what Diesel has come to represent under his watch. “The collection is the essence of Diesel: disruptive, sexy, fluid, fun,” Martens wrote, encapsulating the playful yet subversive spirit that has defined his tenure. Looking out over the fashion community that has supported his creative journey, he added, “We are all in this together. Let’s take a ride one more time.”

Speaking of taking a ride, while the professional models were confidently strutting down the industrial runway, the atmosphere among the audience began to shift rapidly, growing noticeably more intimate and frisky. To the absolute surprise and delight of the gathered guests, Diesel models who had been strategically dotted throughout the tiered audience seating began to engage in spontaneous-looking make-out sessions with each other. These romantic and sensual interactions occurred in pairs, threesomes, and sometimes even larger groups, forming one final, thoroughly sexed-up celebration of Martens’ boundary-pushing tenure at the helm of the brand.

This unexpected spectacle was later revealed by the label to be a carefully orchestrated series of performative interventions conceptualized and executed by the renowned French choreography collective (LA)HORDE. As the Diesel-clad dancers kissed, embraced, and canoodled across the seating banks, loud, atmospheric moans blared out from the venue’s speakers, merging high-fashion theater with visceral performance art. It was an unmistakable, roaring statement on the intersection of clothing, bodies, and desire—and quite simply, an unforgettable way to bow out of a storied fashion house. God bless you, Glenn.