In photos: Aaron Esh SS27 finally sees life in technicolour

If a designer known for brooding urbanism were to finally surrender to the pull of colour, there is perhaps no single hue that announces an arrival quite like shocking pink. The color immediately evokes rich historical associations, bringing to mind the iconic shocking pink of Elsa Schiaparelli, a fierce and uncompromising kind of femininity, and the cinematic glamour of Marilyn Monroe immortalized in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes. Staying true to his roots, Esh began the presentation with a model draped in that very famous hue, yet filtered it entirely through his own distinct lens of East London cool. The model’s delicate, bias-cut gown swished rhythmically as she marched down the runway to the ear-splittingly loud electro tracks blaring from the venue’s public address system. Although the foundational core of the collection was still anchored by dependable bases of deep blues, blacks, and greys, hot pink proliferated throughout the garments, accompanied by a dynamic array of saturated crimsons, rich purples, and vibrant teals.

Alongside this newfound obsession with high-octane colour, Esh was deeply experimenting with unlikely styling combinations this season, pushing the boundaries of what modern menswear and womenswear can achieve when freed from traditional conventions. "I have always been interested in the point where taste becomes personal. When something is technically wrong but instinctively right," explained the designer, giving insight into his creative philosophy for the season. "When you see someone wearing a combination you would never have imagined and immediately want to wear it." On the runway, this manifesto of personal style came through vividly via a series of jarring yet captivating pairings. A fluffy, feathered skirt—rendered once again in that unmistakable, retina-scorching shocking pink shade—had its inherent party-girl potential sharply offset and grounded by a utilitarian grey zip-up blazer and a sleek leather hood. Elsewhere in the lineup, black tights treated with a distinct craquelé leather effect were paired with structured heels and an urban hoodie, while striped skirts and aggressively clashing hues recalled the harsh, uninhibited colour-blocking aesthetics of the late 2000s, reinterpreted through a contemporary, sophisticated filter. Concluding his thoughts on the shift in direction, Esh emphasized that fashion is no longer about blindly following established rules, but about trusting one’s own gut reaction. "It is no longer about following the rules," concluded Esh. "It is about instinct."